Anthony Vaccarello's debut collection for Yves Saint Laurent, Spring Summer 2017, remains a pivotal moment in the house's history. Referred to by many as a "Sebastian" moment, due to its powerful and transformative impact, the show wasn't just a presentation of clothes; it was a statement, a declaration of intent, and a bold reimagining of the iconic brand's legacy. This article will delve into the intricacies of the collection, examining its stylistic choices, its impact on the fashion world, and its enduring relevance within the context of Vaccarello's overall tenure at Saint Laurent. The full high-definition video of the Paris Fashion Week show, readily available online, serves as an invaluable resource for understanding the collection's power and dynamism.
Before delving into the specifics of the SS17 collection, it's crucial to understand the context. Yves Saint Laurent, the house, carried a weight of history and expectation. Decades of iconic designs, from Le Smoking tuxedo suit to the Mondrian dresses, had cemented its place as a powerhouse of haute couture and ready-to-wear. The appointment of Anthony Vaccarello, known for his sleek, body-conscious aesthetic, was met with both excitement and apprehension. Could a designer known for a more overtly sensual and modern approach successfully navigate the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent, a figure synonymous with a certain kind of French sophistication and elegance?
The answer, as presented in the Spring Summer 2017 show, was a resounding yes, albeit with a significant reinterpretation. The collection wasn't a direct homage to Saint Laurent's past; rather, it was a dialogue, a conversation between the house's heritage and Vaccarello's distinct vision. This dialogue manifested itself in several key elements.
One of the most striking features of the SS17 collection was its unwavering focus on the female form. Vaccarello's designs were undeniably sexy, but not in a gratuitous way. The sexuality was empowered, confident, and unapologetic. This was achieved through a masterful use of silhouette: close-fitting dresses, tailored jackets that hugged the body, and high-waisted trousers that accentuated the waist. The collection repeatedly employed strategic cutouts and sheer panels, revealing glimpses of skin without ever sacrificing sophistication. This was a far cry from the sometimes more romantic and bohemian aesthetics associated with earlier Saint Laurent collections, signalling a clear shift towards a more contemporary and assertive femininity.
The colour palette of the SS17 collection was equally impactful. Black, a staple of Saint Laurent's aesthetic, was omnipresent, providing a backdrop for the dramatic silhouettes and highlighting the collection's overall sense of power. However, Vaccarello also incorporated flashes of vibrant colour – rich reds, deep blues, and striking golds – adding a touch of unexpected glamour and highlighting the collection's versatility. These bursts of color weren't merely decorative; they added depth and complexity, demonstrating a nuanced approach to luxury that extended beyond simple monochrome elegance.
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